Laura Biagiotti RTW Fall 2022 – WWD

Lavinia Biagiotti decided to hold her fall show at Rome’s Centrale Montemartini, the city’s first power station dating back to 1912, which was turned into a museum in 1997. The location is impressive, as industrial archeology and classic meet in a contrast of beautiful marble statues, precious mosaics and the original diesel engines or the enormous steam boiler.

The designer, whose company is based in Guidonia, outside Rome, has highlighted several emblematic places in the Italian capital, such as the Ara Pacis Museum or Piazza del Campidoglio on the Capitoline Hill, and after her spring parade at the Maxxi museum, she was fascinated by the Centrale Montemartini because she thought it could represent “the energy of beauty”.

“Too often the beauty of a statue, a dress, a painting or nature is imagined as static, as something to be admired – the dress in a display case, the statue in a museum – but I like the idea of ​​bringing beauty into our daily lives, in motion. Maybe because our clothes have been hanging in our wardrobes for two years,” she explained. “Statues of muses stand in this museum and fashion is a modern muse that places women and beauty at the center.”

Biagiotti filmed the show, which was unveiled digitally on Sunday during Milan Fashion Week, as she highlighted the connection to the city. Her friend Anna Cleveland opened the show wearing a flared, belted dress under a cashmere fur coat in an all-white – a signature color for the house, and here in sync with the hue of the statues. The mosaics of the place inspired the design of another satin dress or a miniskirt. Gold was also a strong color for Biagiotti, seen in a braided cashmere top and ankle-length skirt.

Catering to everyday needs, there were also a number of bespoke pinstripe suits and houndstooth coats, but Biagiotti knows it can’t all be work and no play and offered dresses evening dresses with flounces and gathered like dolls in taffeta juxtaposed with close-fitting dresses. goddess dresses. The collection reflected the evolution of the designer as she further extended her reach.